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February 26, 2005
The Daytime Bangkok Experience
I'm in a taxi. The meter is slowly blinking as the car idles, the numbers climbing with every block. The world seems to be enjoying itself more than it usually does on these smog filled streets. There is an electricity in the air far removed from the tangles of power-lines webbing over the streets. I was up late again, and when I woke I felt like I had to do something memorable with my day. I considered my options as I took a cold shower and had breakfast on the street at three in the afternoon. Now, looking back on my choice, I've realized going shopping at Siam Square in downtown Bangkok is never an ordinary experience.
It was sprawling chaos. Seven floors of dizzying repetition interconnected with fun-filled escalators, if only I could figure out how to reach the ones that take you down. Looking out over the railing on the sixth floor at the crawling consumers below, I couldn't help thinking of human beings on a small scale, resembling those glass ant farms I loved so much as a kid. My thoughts were interrupted by a Thai salesman nudging my shoulder with a stack of Windows 2005 CDs. "Sexy movie, sexy movie, jing jing." he says and smiles. I look from him to the stack of "Windows" cases and then back. "Where are the escalators that go down?" is all I can say as I give him a lopsided grin and head for the exits.
So as I said, now I'm in a taxi idling in that legendary Bangkok traffic. I adjust my A/C vent and ask the driver what's up with the long red light. He explains to me in Thai and a bit of broken English that the King is going to be passing by us in a bit. I look around and realize that traffic is stopped as far as the eye can see. My thoughts drift to what I know about the King of Thailand. I see his face everywhere, but who really knows the guy? There's rumor he plays saxophone in his palace with a small band all night long and sleeps in as late as possible. The King is the bringer of hope and love and well-being for Thailand. He is the ultimate good example; leading his people by good deeds and good words. Less favorable political actions like Bangkok's 1:00AM curfew laws are left up to the Prime Minister. The King cannot do wrong.
The anticipation of seeing His Highness drive by is still building after seven and a half minutes of waiting. Is he going to reimburse my taxi fare? All of the sudden, in the intersection ahead of us zooms by six police motorcycles, followed by a swarm of squad cars. Lights flashing, the police are followed by some serious looking limo-tinted BMW Coupes filled with lethal bodyguards, no doubt. Then I see it-- the Kings ride. Cream colored and stylish, the older model Bentley radiates class. The flags of Thailand fly from the roof. My taxi driver lets out a subdued breath with clouded eyes. Another train of Coupes and squad cars roar by; the sheer numbers in the convoy becoming unreal. A total of over 36 vehicles and many, many more personnel to escort one man through his own city. I prefer anonymity myself.
As traffic resumed, I snuck a glance at my driver. He had a warm smile on his face and a far-away look in his eyes. I wondered what he was feeling. Humans need to maintain a sense of meaning and importance to their lives; be it a faith in a power greater than ourselves; a King as a perfect figurehead to look to in times of trouble; a good mall to go shopping in; somebody to love; a personal creative outlet like music, language, art; anything. If we don't have these soul-touching elements of life, what do we have to believe in? As every sunrise and sunset passes swiftly by, something needs to remind us of how precious each minute we have on this planet truly is.
Before I knew it, the ride was over. I paid my driver and stood at the end of the constantly crowded Khao San Road as a strange feeling washed over me like I'd just come back home to the neighborhood... my turf. I took it as a sure sign I've been strolling these polluted but fascinating streets of Banglumpoo for too long. Where was my meaning? At the Phad Kraprao stand? In the park by the Chao Praya? Everything in moderation. Where am I going next? A river, a mountain, a temple... the beach. What do I believe in? Experience.
Posted by Tom Bodhi at February 26, 2005 04:10 AM
Comments
I read this story of seeing the King again, and it struck me how it begins in a very mundane way, in a traffic jam, and ends on a deeply philosophical note. It's a meta-experience, beyond everyday experience, or experience as metaphor. I enjoyed your reflections on the comfort a King can provide as witnessed in the dreamy smile of the taxi driver. Finally, I like the question and answer at the end. Thanks for your insights!Emma
Posted by: emma cornell at March 1, 2005 11:30 PM
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